It is the day before Chinese New Year and luck is in the air. Susan and Julie Lama are standing at the door behind which Kim Ling lies. At this 28-year-old restaurant on Anna Nagar’s Second Avenue, they are scurrying to arrange flowers, light agarbattis and finish a small ‘puja’ before customers arrive. “It is the year of the snake,” Julie remarks.
This entrance is full of typical Indo-Chinese restaurant paraphernalia. There is red plastered on the walls, a large laughing Buddha, Buddhist scrolls and paper lanterns. But at the makeshift altar, where good luck is up for grabs, the two 60-something sisters of Chinese-origin are negotiating for space.
The offerings to god, all plated on small red plastic dishes, include candles, port wine, green tea, dragon fruits, a roasted chicken, fish, assorted meat dripping in its own fat, some dry fruits and flowers.
Red envelopes of cash | Photo Credit: S Shiva Raj
On the left are the coveted red envelopes which will be filled with cash soon. “We call it hóngbāo (in Mandarin). The amount does not have to be large but the money is usually considered very lucky,” says Susan, lighting the incense sticks. Her brother-in-law, Peter Lama, holds the candles in his hand, signalling the beginning of the ceremony. A wish is whispered as eyes are tightly shut. The rest of the family emulates the order, praying for an auspicious year.
The first red envelope that Susan remembers receiving is from her family in Calcutta’s Chinatown. After her grandparents moved with her parents from China to India in the 1930s, trying to escape two major wars, the families attempted not just to survive but to build booming businesses. Their families ended up entering the beauty and the hospitality space.
“My father died when I was eight so we had no choice but to begin working. We travelled all over the country — Delhi, Mumbai, Kochi — but ended up building our businesses here. After our parlours were a success, we [Susan, Julie and their respective husbands Nima Lama and Peter Lama who were chefs] had saved up enough to begin a small fast food restaurant called Kim Ling in Chetpet. That was quite the hit,” says Julie.
Peter Lama, Julie Lama and Susan Lama | Photo Credit: S Shiva Raj
Susan adds that her husband wanted distinct names like ‘Hong Kong Beauty Parlour’ and ‘Kim Lings’ to ensure quick Chinese association. When the opportunity to expand presented itself, they moved to Anna Nagar, which was sparsely populated in 1997 and started the first iteration of their current establishment.
“The three Buddhas on the stoop have been there since the very beginning. We only renovated once. Our customers liked rectangular instead of circular tables,” says Julie at the dimly lit restaurant. The smell of kung pao chicken wafts through the air and Peter walks out with fried rice in a bamboo shoot. “We were among the first few to do this in Chennai. Our customers love the typical stuff — dragon chicken and momos. The children especially love the lollipop. That and the aquarium. They go crazy seeing the large fish,” Julie says.
Bamboo fried rice and kung pao chicken | Photo Credit: S Shiva Raj
Over the years, Chennai has drastically transformed in front of their eyes. However, the people have consistently been respectful of them. “We invited the cops at K-4 police station for the opening of our restaurant. They are still kind to us,” says Susan. She adds that with the establishment of the metro, wide roads and an enthusiastic youthful population, ready to test new food, they are ready for a new audience. They are yet to be accustomed to the weather but Chennai is home, nevertheless. “I now know enough Tamil to fight with the auto drivers,” says Susan, chuckling.
“Earlier, we would take the day off and go on picnics with the staff. We do not do that anymore. Nor is there the popular dragon dance. However, some traditions still exist. Tonight, we will welcome the new year with extended family at home, eating delicious dumplings [chicken, fish, pork], roast meat and merry drinks. We will play cards too. Chinese new year vazhtukkal everyone,” Susan concludes.
A child being delighted by the aquarium at Kim Ling | Photo Credit: S Shiva Raj
Published - January 28, 2025 07:20 pm IST
