Despite a particularly unforgiving downpour in Singapore, last month, I was determined to meet Vasunthara Ramasamy, a former MasterChef Singapore Season 2 contestant who, since 2021, has been offering a unique private dining experience called Cutlery Optional in her Ang Mo Kio home situated in central Singapore. Her culinary offerings are deeply influenced by her rich heritage and the diverse cultures she was exposed to growing up.
Vasunthara’s paternal grandparents were of Indian origin, with roots in Coimbatore, but were born in Malaysia. Her maternal grandmother, of Chinese descent, was adopted by a Malaysian-Indian woman in Singapore. Raised in Joo Chiat, a predominantly Chinese neighbourhood adjacent to Geylang Serai, she was immersed in a rich tapestry of cultures from an early age. This diverse upbringing exposed her to a myriad of flavours, shaping her personal approach to food.
Vasunthara at her home in Singapore | Photo Credit: Carlina Teteris
At Cutlery Optional, Vasunthara explores the lesser-known depths of South Indian and Sri Lankan culinary traditions, moving beyond the typical associations of Tamil cuisine. For lunch, I was served thosai—fermented for 16 hours—accompanied by a rich peanut podi and a prawn pulao. The meal concluded with kueh, small cakes traditionally made from tapioca flour and natural flavourings.
Vasunthara’s take on a biryani | Photo Credit: Kerry Cheah
The egg thosai
“I’m a feeder!” quips Vasunthara, adding, “Joo Chiat, where I grew up, is renowned for its Peranakan Chinese community, and visits to the local market introduced me to many Malays, given the area’s Malay heritage. Within my own family, South Indian traditions were deeply ingrained—my grandparents, for instance, sold thosai to make ends meet.” Vasunthara’s maternal grandfather hailed from Thanjavur but moved to Singapore in the early 20th century.
As she established her own home, a desire to cook emerged, marking a journey of self-discovery through food and a means to connect with her heritage. “I yearned for my grandmother’s cooking, particularly as she was battling Alzheimer’s at the time. Like many Indian cooks, she seldom provided precise instructions, which spurred me to recreate the flavours of my childhood,” she says.
Mini paniyarams | Photo Credit: Kerry Cheah
Vasunthara also highlights the significant yet often overlooked contributions of Tamil Muslim cuisine in Singapore. “They were often the cooks and entrepreneurs who established eateries, yet their efforts remain underappreciated. Discussing these topics can be challenging due to prevailing biases, even within my own family. For instance, acknowledging the Muslim roots of dishes like biryani is essential, yet often overlooked,” she says.
Through her private dining venture, Vasunthara aims to delve into the stories of various communities, shedding light on the rich culinary traditions that have shaped Singapore’s food landscape. “Engaging with food has been a continuous learning experience, offering insights into my heritage and identity,” she says.
Cultural re-engagement
First-generation Singaporean rapper Yung Raja’s Indian-Mexican eatery The Maha Co. may be far removed from what Vasunthara is trying to accomplish with his culinary venture, but the ethos is the same. He, too, wants to spotlight his Tamil heritage. Born Rajid Ahamed Yousuf Arafat, in 1995, Raja’s work is deeply rooted in his Tamil heritage while embracing a contemporary, global outlook. His parents emigrated from Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu, in the early 1990s, and unlike many second- and third-generation Tamil Singaporeans who primarily identify as Singaporean, Raja grew up in a household where Tamil culture remained intact. His family upheld traditional customs — speaking Tamil at home, consuming Tamil media, and adhering to cultural practices —which gave him a strong foundation in his identity.
The thosai taco at The Maha Co. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
His connection to Tamil runs deeper than language; it is interwoven with family legacy. His father, Yousuf Rowther Rajid Ahamed, is a published Tamil poet and the founder of the Tamil Debate Association in Singapore, while his elder sister is a Tamil teacher. “I’ve never seen my Tamil identity as something to be muted or blended into a broader Singaporean identity. It’s always been my biggest asset,” he says.
Yung Raja | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Beyond music, Raja’s love for South Indian food, particularly the comfort of his mother’s home-cooked thosai, led to the creation of The Maha Co., which he claims does the world’s first thosai taco, which comes with fillings like an egg burji, a prawn curry and even mutton, a food venture co-founded with his business partner during the pandemic. The restaurant’s signature thosai tacos reflect his creative ethos — taking something deeply familiar and reimagining it in a way that remains respectful to its origins while making it accessible to new audiences. His partner, a Chinese Singaporean with a deep appreciation for Indian food, was blown away when he first tasted home-style thosai, highlighting a common experience where many people only encounter Indian food in a commercial setting rather than through personal, homemade expressions of culture.
“One of my strongest memories is watching my mum and grandma hand-grind thosai batter on a stone grinder. It was a weekly ritual — no shortcuts, no store-bought mix, just patience, effort, and tradition. I would sit on the floor with them, turning the heavy stone with our hands, a process that had been passed down generations. But as I got older, I realised many of my Tamil friends had never even seen a stone grinder, let alone used one,” says Raja, who says it is quite ironic to see how two Singaporeans have learned to make the thosai his mother has taught them with such ease.
Drink up
In the heart of Singapore’s vibrant cocktail scene stands Native, a bar that has garnered international acclaim for its innovative approach to mixology. At its helm is Vijay Mudaliar, who has seamlessly woven his Tamil heritage into the fabric of his creations. Born and raised in Singapore, Vijay’s journey into the world of bartending was serendipitous. Initially working in corporate roles, he found himself drawn to the dynamic environment of bars, eventually deciding to pursue his passion full-time.
Vijay Mudaliar takes us through some of his favourite cocktails at Native in Singapore | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
In 2016, Vijay co-founded Native, a bar that embodies his commitment to locality and sustainability. Every element of Native reflects this ethos: the furniture is crafted by local artisans, the music showcases regional talent, and, most notably, the cocktails are infused with ingredients sourced from the surrounding environment.
“My journey into mixology didn’t begin behind a fancy bar — it started in my home kitchen. I’ve always been fascinated by flavours, and living in Singapore, where so many cultures intersect, I couldn’t help but wonder how our native ingredients could translate into cocktails,” he says, adding,
“I started playing around with what I could find locally, foraging ingredients that most people would walk past without a second thought. I remember coming across wild sorrel for the first time — it had this incredible citrusy tang, and I knew instantly that it could work beautifully in a drink.”
The Peranakan cocktail at Native | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For Vijay, it was not just about the flavours, though. He wanted to challenge the way we think about cocktails. Every drink tells a story, whether it is through the use of South Indian spices, locally distilled spirits, or even something as simple as foraged herbs.
The Pandan cocktail at Native | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“Experimenting in my kitchen gave me the space to be creative without limits. I’d mix, taste, adjust, and start over again—no rules, no expectations. That’s where I first realised that cocktails could be more than just drinks; they could be a reflection of identity, culture, and sustainability,” he says.
He often incorporates traditional South Indian ingredients, offering a fresh perspective on familiar flavours. For instance, the ‘Peranakan’ cocktail is a harmonious blend of Indian rum, galangal, laksa leaves, tamarind, dried pandan, candlenut, and gula melaka, capturing the essence of regional tastes.
The Pineapple Arrack cocktail at Native | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Beyond the drinks, Native’s ambience is a testament to Mudaliar’s heritage. The bar’s design elements subtly nod to South Indian culture, creating an environment that is both contemporary and deeply rooted in tradition. Through Native, Vijay has crafted more than just a bar; his cocktails are not merely drinks but stories — each sip offering a glimpse into the rich tapestry of his Tamil roots and his vision for a more conscious approach to mixology.
For the culture
Tucked away in Singapore’s Chinatown, The Elephant Room is not just a cocktail bar — it is a love letter to Indian culture, particularly the sights, sounds, and flavours of Little India. Founded by Yugnes ‘Yugi’ Susela, a bartender with deep Tamil roots (his family hails from the Chettinad region), the bar is all about celebrating the vibrant history, traditions, and ingredients of the Indian diaspora in Singapore.
Yugnes ‘Yugi’ Susela | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For Yugi, cocktails are more than just drinks — they are stories, memories, and cultural touchpoints. “I would experiment at home. I was always fascinated by the depth of flavours in Indian cuisine — the warmth of cardamom, the earthiness of turmeric, the punch of fresh curry leaves — and I wanted to see how they could be reimagined in cocktails. That passion for blending Indian influences with modern mixology eventually led me to create The Elephant Room,” he says.
The bar sources most of its ingredients straight from Tekka Market, the bustling heart of Little India, ensuring authenticity in every drink. The menu reads like a sensory journey through South India — each cocktail pays tribute to a flavour, a dish, or a cultural reference that feels familiar yet reimagined. Take the Banana King, for instance — a cocktail made with roasted banana gin, banana stem juice, and a banana blossom sugar shard, all served on a banana leaf coaster. Then there is the Ginger Flower, a fresh take on the classic French 75, infused with aromatic ginger flower, sour plum, lemon, and champagne.
The Champa Fizz cocktail at The Elephant Room | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
A standout on the menu is the Champa Fizz, a beautifully floral cocktail inspired by the champaca flower, which is often used in South Indian temple offerings. Made with distilled champaca, honey, and soda, it is light and fragrant.
The spice cabinet at The Elephant Room | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“While The Elephant Room has a modern feel, it’s deeply rooted in South Indian tradition. The space is filled with warm, earthy tones, brass fixtures that remind me of temple lamps, and handwoven textures that echo the charm of Indian homes. Our signature red hue is a nod to the bright vermillion of kumkum powder. Every detail — whether it’s in the decor or on the menu — has been designed to tell a story,” says Yugi.
Kanjivaram saree fabric woven into the menu at The Elephant Room | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
But Yugi’s vision for The Elephant Room goes beyond just serving great drinks. “Everything has to be deeply personal,” he says, and through his cocktails, he is making sure those stories are heard, tasted, and remembered.
Published - February 05, 2025 06:00 pm IST
